TheTimeo / Jewelry

PomellatoThe shape of freedom

Inside Stile Libero, Pomellato’s 2026 high jewellery collection: sapphires arranged freely, sculptural gold links and the intricate openwork of Arabesque.

The Timeo6 September 20265 min read

Mandala Chromia: a multicoloured sapphire medallion suspended from a rose-gold chain. Source: Pomellato.

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Pink, violet, yellow, blue, orange and green sapphires fill Pomellato’s Mandala Chromia medallion. Their shapes and sizes shift across the surface, framed by brown diamonds and suspended from a substantial gold chain. It is a good place to begin looking at Stile Libero.

Presented in Paris in June 2026, the 65-piece high jewellery collection explores three familiar Pomellato materials in different ways: coloured stones, gold and the spaces between them. The most interesting details are the decisions that make those materials feel less constrained.

A different order of colour

Coloured-stone earrings alongside annotated design studies in the Stile Libero press material. Source: Pomellato.

Turquoise-coloured stones arranged across rounded rose-gold earrings. Source: Pomellato.

The Intreccio ring combines crossing bands of coloured stones. Source: Pomellato.

Pomellato calls its irregular approach to arranging stones serti libre, or free setting. The freedom lies in the composition: gems can retain different shapes and proportions instead of fitting a repeated grid. The jeweller’s work is to make the resulting arrangement feel coherent.

The design studies and finished earrings show several ways of doing this. Long rectangular stones introduce a different rhythm from the surrounding pavé; rounded volumes give the colour a surface to travel around. The Intreccio ring brings another change of scale, with coloured bands crossing over one another.

In Mandala Chromia, 99 natural sapphires form a dense field of colour inside the medallion. Brown diamonds warm its perimeter, while hand-pierced openwork gives the centre another layer of detail. The eye can move from the whole necklace to the arrangement of individual stones without losing the shape of the object.

Three ways to build a collection

The official chapters are Visionary Colors, Magnetic Gold and Hypnotic Shadows. Each gives a different element the leading role.

Visionary ColorsStone placement and colour relationships determine the composition, from irregular groupings to carefully graduated sequences.
Magnetic GoldChains, links and articulated sections become the main event. Their size and shape give the jewel its character.
Hypnotic ShadowsOpenwork introduces light and shadow into broad surfaces. The spaces cut through the metal become part of the drawing.

This range matters. A collection built entirely around irregularity would soon become predictable. Stile Libero gives Pomellato room to alternate between dense colour, clear repetition and the delicacy of pierced gold.

The link at the centre

The finished Attache necklace, with its enlarged diamond-set central link. Source: Pomellato.

The Byzantine choker and Note di Luce ring, worn. Source: Pomellato.

Arabesque: a rose-gold openwork necklace created with artisan Sara Bran. Source: Pomellato.

Attache puts the chain itself in the spotlight. Inspired by a Pomellato chain from the 1990s, the rose-gold necklace varies the size of its links around a much larger, diamond-set central element. Pomellato describes three wearing configurations.

The enlarged link anchors the necklace visually. Smaller links carry the form around it, allowing the eye to follow the gold as well as the diamonds. Four emerald-cut brown diamonds give the centre a warm focal point, surrounded by pavé and baguette-cut diamonds.

Transformability is especially interesting here because it belongs to the chain’s construction. The enlarged link is both a focal point and part of the way the jewel is organised, giving the necklace a centre that does more than catch the light.

Gold in proportion

The photograph of Byzantine worn with a Note di Luce ring brings the discussion back to scale. The choker’s repeated gold sections sit close to the neck; the diamonds punctuate that rhythm. The ring concentrates the same warmth into a much smaller volume.

Articulated sectionsByzantine is built around a modular rose-gold structure. Its linked elements give the necklace a continuous visual rhythm.
Brown diamondsNine emerald-cut brown diamonds sit in custom rose-gold bezels. Their colour sits close to the warmth of the metal rather than creating a stark white contrast.
A house vocabularyChains, tactile gold and coloured stones connect the new collection to Pomellato’s earlier work. The high jewellery format expands their scale and complexity.

Colour can also follow a sequence

Rainbow Supreme offers a useful counterpoint to the irregularity of free setting. Its 68 round tourmalines, totalling more than 157 carats, follow a colour progression through pale tones, pink, yellow and green. Repetition gives the changing colours a clear structure.

Drops of Paraíba approaches the problem differently. Pomellato describes a choker with 21 pear-shaped tourmalines, totalling 20.15 carats, varied in size and shade. Their irregular arrangement makes the stones read as individual drops within the larger composition.

These two designs explain the strength of the first chapter. Different stones invite different arrangements. One necklace builds a sequence; another allows contrasting sizes and shades to establish a less regular rhythm. Both depend on careful selection before the setting begins.

From solid form to openwork

Arabesque gives gold presence through an intricate pattern of openings. Its broad collar spreads across the neck, but the pierced surface lets the skin show through the drawing.

Arabesque was created with French artisan Sara Bran. Its rose-gold collar is hand-pierced into a lace-like structure and set with 18 rose-cut diamonds. Pomellato records 1,450 hours of work.

The open spaces are central to the effect. They separate the lines of gold, allow the background to become visible through the necklace and make the broad surface feel more intricate. The diamonds follow a structure that is already visually rich before their reflections enter the picture.

Elsewhere in Hypnotic Shadows, Ipnotica gives openwork a more rounded, geometric character. The Titanio pieces introduce black titanium alongside white diamonds. The contrast shows how the same interest in pierced surfaces can lead to a very different result.

Freedom with a recognisable shape

Stile Libero’s most persuasive quality is its continuity. The collection moves between coloured stones, substantial links and intricate openwork while remaining recognisably Pomellato.

High jewellery gives the house more room to explore those ideas: larger colour fields, more elaborate construction and collaborations with specialist artisans. The details reward close attention, but the first impression remains direct. A medallion full of colour, a beautifully resolved chain, a collar drawn in gold and light: each can hold the eye before the specifications are read.

Sources & further reading

Independent analysis of the supplied collection material; no handling or wear test is claimed. Collection details checked on 6 September 2026. Photographs and design studies: Pomellato, from official Pomellato and Kering material. No geographic origin is inferred for the coloured stones.