Hublot

Hublot SA, established in 1980 in Nyon, Switzerland, is a Swiss luxury watch manufacturer recognised for its innovative approach to watchmaking, particularly its fusion of unconventional materials and its distinctive porthole-inspired case designs. Under the leadership of Jean-Claude Biver and later Ricardo Guadalupe, Hublot has become a prominent brand within the LVMH group, known for its bold aesthetic and marketing strategies.

History and Founding

Carlo Crocco, an Italian watchmaker from the Binda Group dynasty (founders of Breil watches), established Hublot in 1980 (Wikipedia). Driven by a vision to create a distinctive and modern timepiece, Crocco sought to break away from traditional watchmaking norms. His initial design centred around a gold case paired with a rubber strap – a combination considered unconventional at the time. The name “Hublot,” meaning “porthole” in French, was chosen to reflect the watch’s distinctive case shape, inspired by the maritime world.

Crocco’s early designs were met with scepticism from the established watchmaking community, which traditionally favoured precious metals and leather straps. However, the Hublot’s unique aesthetic and comfortable rubber strap quickly gained popularity among a new generation of watch enthusiasts. The brand’s early success was built on its ability to offer a luxurious yet sporty alternative to traditional dress watches.

Historical Timeline

Year	Event
1980	Hublot is founded by Carlo Crocco, introducing the first gold watch with a rubber strap.
2004	Jean-Claude Biver takes over as CEO, ushering in a new era of innovation and growth.
2005	The Big Bang chronograph is launched, winning the “Best Design” prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
2008	Hublot is acquired by LVMH, becoming part of the world’s largest luxury conglomerate.
2010	Hublot develops and manufactures its first in-house movement, the Unico chronograph.
2012	Hublot becomes the official timekeeper of Ferrari, marking the beginning of a long-term partnership.
2017	Ricardo Guadalupe becomes CEO, succeeding Jean-Claude Biver.
2018	Hublot releases the Big Bang MP-11, featuring a seven-barrel movement with a 14-day power reserve.
2020	Hublot celebrates its 40th anniversary with the launch of several limited-edition models.
2023	Revenue reaches CHF 670 million (Wikipedia).

Key Collections and Iconic References

Hublot’s product portfolio is structured around several key collections, each with its own distinct design and target audience. These collections showcase Hublot’s commitment to material innovation, technical complexity, and bold aesthetics.

• Big Bang: Launched in 2005, the Big Bang is Hublot’s flagship collection and is arguably the most recognisable. It is known for its multi-layered case construction, bold dial designs, and use of unconventional materials such as carbon fibre, ceramic, and titanium. The Big Bang collection encompasses a wide range of models, including chronographs, tourbillons, and perpetual calendars. The Big Bang Original Unico (introduced in 2024) is a core model (Hublot).

• Classic Fusion: The Classic Fusion collection offers a more refined and elegant take on Hublot’s design language. While still incorporating the brand’s signature porthole-shaped case, the Classic Fusion models feature cleaner lines, simpler dials, and a greater emphasis on traditional materials such as gold and leather. This collection is designed to appeal to those who appreciate Hublot’s aesthetic but prefer a more understated timepiece.

• Spirit of Big Bang: The Spirit of Big Bang collection distinguishes itself with its tonneau-shaped case, a departure from Hublot’s traditional round cases. This collection retains the brand’s focus on material innovation and technical complexity, offering models with chronograph, tourbillon, and moon phase complications. The Spirit of Big Bang is often seen as a more avant-garde and sporty alternative to the Big Bang.

• MP (Masterpiece): The MP collection represents Hublot’s most ambitious and technically advanced timepieces. These limited-edition models showcase the brand’s expertise in movement design and construction, often featuring innovative complications and unconventional displays. The MP collection is aimed at serious collectors and horological enthusiasts who appreciate the highest levels of craftsmanship and innovation. The Big Bang MP-11, with its seven-barrel movement, is a notable example.

• Special Editions and Collaborations: Hublot has a history of creating special edition watches in collaboration with athletes, artists, and other brands. These collaborations often result in unique and highly collectible timepieces that reflect the personality and style of the collaborator. Notable collaborations include those with Ferrari, Novak Djokovic, and various contemporary artists.

Technical Heritage and Innovation

Hublot’s technical heritage is rooted in its commitment to innovation and its willingness to experiment with new materials and manufacturing techniques. While the brand initially relied on outsourced movements, it has increasingly focused on developing and producing its own in-house calibres.

• Material Fusion: Hublot is renowned for its pioneering use of “fusion” – the combination of seemingly disparate materials in its watches. This approach has led to the development of proprietary materials such as “Magic Gold” (scratch-resistant gold) and the extensive use of carbon fibre, ceramic, and titanium in its cases and movements. The brand’s ability to seamlessly integrate these materials is a key aspect of its design identity.

• Unico Movement: The Unico movement is Hublot’s flagship in-house chronograph calibre. It features a column-wheel design, a flyback function, and a modular construction that allows for the addition of various complications. The Unico movement is used in many of Hublot’s Big Bang and MP models, demonstrating the brand’s commitment to vertical integration.

• Complications: Hublot offers a range of watches with complex complications, including tourbillons, perpetual calendars, minute repeaters, and moon phase displays. These complications showcase the brand’s technical expertise and its ability to create high-end timepieces that appeal to discerning collectors.

• Research and Development: Hublot invests heavily in research and development, constantly exploring new materials, manufacturing techniques, and movement designs. This commitment to innovation is essential to the brand’s ability to stay ahead of the curve and maintain its position as a leader in the luxury watch market.

Ownership and Corporate Structure

Hublot has been a wholly owned subsidiary of LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton) since 2008 (Wikipedia). LVMH is the world’s largest luxury conglomerate, with a portfolio of prestigious brands in fashion, leather goods, wines and spirits, perfumes and cosmetics, and watches and jewellery.

As part of LVMH, Hublot benefits from the group’s extensive resources, distribution network, and marketing expertise. However, Hublot also maintains a degree of autonomy, allowing it to preserve its unique brand identity and pursue its own strategic objectives.

The brand’s headquarters and manufacturing facilities are located in Nyon, Switzerland. This allows Hublot to maintain its “Swiss Made” designation and benefit from the country’s long tradition of watchmaking excellence.

Key Figures

• Carlo Crocco: The founder of Hublot, Crocco’s vision for a modern and unconventional timepiece laid the foundation for the brand’s success. His decision to pair a gold case with a rubber strap was a bold move that challenged traditional watchmaking norms.

• Jean-Claude Biver: Biver served as CEO of Hublot from 2004 to 2017 and is widely credited with transforming the brand into a global powerhouse. His marketing genius and his focus on material innovation and strategic partnerships propelled Hublot to new heights. Biver’s famous quote, “The Art of Fusion,” encapsulates Hublot’s design philosophy.

• Ricardo Guadalupe: Guadalupe succeeded Biver as CEO in 2017, having previously served as the brand’s managing director. He has continued to build on Biver’s legacy, focusing on expanding Hublot’s product line, strengthening its retail network, and further developing its in-house manufacturing capabilities (Wikipedia).

Auction Records

Hublot watches have performed well at auction, reflecting the brand’s growing popularity among collectors. While Hublot does not command the same record-breaking prices as some of the more established Swiss watch brands, its limited-edition models and unique designs have attracted significant interest from bidders.

Watch	Auction House	Sale Price (Approx.)	Year
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Diamond	Christie’s	£250,000	2015
Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari Sapphire	Phillips	£480,000	2017
Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black	Sotheby’s	£100,000	2021

These auction results demonstrate the increasing value and collectibility of Hublot watches, particularly those with unique designs, rare materials, or complex complications.

Cultural Legacy and Influence

Hublot has cultivated a strong cultural presence through its strategic partnerships with athletes, artists, and other brands. These collaborations have helped to raise the brand’s profile and associate it with a lifestyle of luxury, performance, and innovation.

• Sports Partnerships: Hublot has a long history of partnering with major sporting events and teams, including FIFA World Cups, UEFA European Championships, and Ferrari. These partnerships provide Hublot with valuable exposure to a global audience and reinforce its image as a brand associated with excellence and achievement.

• Ambassadors: Hublot has enlisted a diverse roster of brand ambassadors, including athletes such as Kylian Mbappé, Usain Bolt, and Novak Djokovic, as well as artists such as Takashi Murakami. These ambassadors embody Hublot’s values and help to connect the brand with a wider audience.

• Art and Design Collaborations: Hublot has collaborated with several contemporary artists and designers to create limited-edition watches that blend horology with art. These collaborations have resulted in unique and highly collectible timepieces that reflect the artist’s vision and style. The collaboration with Takashi Murakami on the Classic Fusion is a prime example.

Legacy and Significance

Hublot’s legacy lies in its disruptive approach to watchmaking and its ability to challenge traditional norms. The brand’s fusion of unconventional materials, its bold designs, and its strategic marketing have helped to redefine the luxury watch market and appeal to a new generation of watch enthusiasts.

Hublot’s significance can be summarised as follows:

• Material Innovation: Hublot has pioneered the use of new materials in watchmaking, pushing the boundaries of what is possible and inspiring other brands to follow suit.

• Design Leadership: Hublot’s bold and distinctive designs have helped to shape the aesthetic of modern luxury watches.

• Marketing Prowess: Hublot’s strategic partnerships and its focus on brand building have made it one of the most recognisable and successful luxury watch brands in the world.

• Swiss Watchmaking: Hublot contributes to the ongoing legacy of Swiss watchmaking by combining traditional craftsmanship with innovative technologies and materials.

While Hublot’s designs may not appeal to all watch collectors, its impact on the industry is undeniable. The brand has demonstrated that it is possible to succeed by challenging conventions and embracing innovation. Hublot’s future will likely involve further exploration of new materials, continued development of its in-house movements, and a continued focus on strategic partnerships and brand building.