Longines

Compagnie des Montres Longines, Francillon S.A., commonly known as Longines, is a Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1832 in Saint-Imier, Switzerland. The company boasts a long and storied history, particularly noted for its contributions to chronometry, aviation timekeeping, and the development of robust and reliable timepieces. Longines is currently owned by The Swatch Group.

History and Founding

The origins of Longines can be traced to a small watchmaking workshop established in 1832 in Saint-Imier by Auguste Agassiz, a watch dealer, in partnership with lawyers Henri Raiguel and Florian Morel. Initially, the business operated under the name “Agassiz & Compagnie”. Agassiz focused on the établissage system, a common practice at the time, where watch components were produced by independent workers in their homes and then assembled and finished in the workshop. These timepieces were then exported, primarily to the American market.

Agassiz’s nephew, Ernest Francillon, joined the company in 1852. Francillon recognised the inefficiencies of the établissage system and envisioned a more integrated manufacturing process. He aimed to bring all aspects of watch production under one roof, utilising mechanisation and modern production techniques. This vision led to the construction of a factory on a plot of land known locally as “Les Longines” (the long meadows) in 1867. The factory was named “Fabrique des Longines, Francillon et Compagnie”.

The name “Longines” was officially registered in 1867, along with the winged hourglass logo, which remains one of the oldest registered trademarks for a watch company still in use today. The introduction of mechanised production significantly increased the volume and consistency of Longines’ output, allowing the company to expand its reach and establish a global presence.

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Historical Timeline

• 1832: Auguste Agassiz founds “Agassiz & Compagnie” in Saint-Imier, Switzerland.
• 1852: Ernest Francillon joins the company.
• 1867: The Longines factory is established on the “Les Longines” site, and the brand name and winged hourglass logo are registered.
• 1878: Longines develops its first chronograph movement, Calibre 20H.
• 1880: The company is renamed “Compagnie des Montres Longines, Francillon S.A.”.
• 1889: Longines registers a patent for its chronograph mechanism.
• 1913: Longines produces its first wristwatch chronograph, Calibre 13.33Z.
• 1919: Longines becomes the official supplier of the International Aeronautical Federation.
• 1927: Charles Lindbergh uses a Longines watch to navigate his historic solo flight across the Atlantic.
• 1931: Longines develops the Weems Second-Setting Watch in collaboration with Captain Philip van Horn Weems.
• 1937: Longines patents a chronograph with a flyback function.
• 1945: Longines introduces its first automatic movement, Calibre 22A.
• 1954: The company launches the Conquest collection.
• 1959: The Flagship collection is introduced.
• 1960: Longines develops the Ultra-Chron movement, beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour.
• 1969: Longines presents the Ultra-Quartz, an early quartz wristwatch.
• 1983: Longines becomes part of the Société Suisse de Microélectronique et d’Horlogerie (SMH), which later becomes The Swatch Group.
• 2007: Longines celebrates its 175th anniversary.
• 2012: The company opens the Longines Museum at its headquarters in Saint-Imier.
• 2023: Longines reports revenue of CHF 1.11 billion.

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Key Collections and Iconic References

Longines boasts a diverse portfolio of collections, each with its own distinct character and historical significance. These collections cater to a wide range of tastes and preferences, from classic dress watches to robust sports models.

• Master Collection: This collection represents Longines’ commitment to traditional watchmaking. It features elegant designs, often incorporating complications such as chronographs, moon phases, and GMT functions. The Master Collection is known for its refined aesthetics and high-quality automatic movements.

• Conquest: The Conquest collection embodies Longines’ sporting heritage. It includes both classic and modern designs, with a focus on durability and functionality. The HydroConquest sub-collection is particularly popular, offering robust dive watches with water resistance up to 300 metres. The Conquest V.H.P. (Very High Precision) models utilise quartz movements with exceptional accuracy.

• Spirit: The Spirit collection pays tribute to the pioneering spirit of aviators and explorers who relied on Longines watches in their adventures. These watches feature bold designs, legible dials, and COSC-certified chronometer movements. The Spirit Zulu Time models incorporate a GMT function, allowing the wearer to track multiple time zones.

• Elegance: This collection encompasses a range of dress watches characterised by their understated elegance and timeless appeal. The DolceVita models, with their rectangular cases, are particularly iconic, drawing inspiration from the Art Deco era. The La Grande Classique de Longines collection features ultra-thin designs and a minimalist aesthetic.

• Heritage: The Heritage collection showcases Longines’ rich history by reissuing and reinterpreting iconic models from its past. These watches offer a glimpse into the brand’s design evolution and technological innovations. Notable models include the Legend Diver, a faithful recreation of a 1960s dive watch, and the Longines Pilot Majetek, inspired by a military watch from the 1930s.

Iconic References:

• Longines Chronograph Calibre 13.33Z: Introduced in 1913, this was one of the first wristwatch chronographs produced by Longines. It featured a high-quality movement and a classic design, setting the standard for future chronograph models.

• Longines Weems Second-Setting Watch: Developed in collaboration with Captain Philip van Horn Weems in 1931, this watch allowed pilots to synchronise their watches with a radio time signal with exceptional precision. It featured a rotating centre seconds disc that could be adjusted independently of the main time.

• Longines Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch: Designed in collaboration with Charles Lindbergh in 1931, this watch enabled pilots to calculate their longitude quickly and accurately. It featured a rotating bezel and a central seconds hand that could be used to determine the hour angle.

• Longines Legend Diver: First launched in the 1960s, and re-issued in the 2000s, this dive watch is celebrated for its distinctive design, including an internal rotating bezel controlled by a second crown. It is a popular choice among vintage watch enthusiasts.

• Longines Ultra-Chron: Introduced in 1967, the Ultra-Chron was notable for its high-frequency movement, beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour. This allowed for greater accuracy and precision.

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Technical Heritage and Innovation

Longines has a long and distinguished history of technical innovation in watchmaking. The company has consistently pushed the boundaries of horological technology, developing groundbreaking movements and complications.

• Chronographs: Longines has been a pioneer in the development of chronograph movements. The company produced its first chronograph in 1878, and has continued to innovate in this area ever since. Longines chronographs have been used in a variety of sporting events, including horse racing, automobile racing, and aviation.

• High-Frequency Movements: Longines was one of the first companies to develop high-frequency movements, which beat at 36,000 vibrations per hour. These movements offer greater accuracy and precision than traditional movements. The Ultra-Chron, introduced in 1967, was a notable example of Longines’ expertise in this area.

• Quartz Technology: Longines was also an early adopter of quartz technology. The company presented the Ultra-Quartz in 1969, one of the first quartz wristwatches. Longines continues to produce quartz watches today, including the Conquest V.H.P. models, which offer exceptional accuracy.

• Navigation Instruments: Longines has a long history of producing navigation instruments for aviation. The company developed the Weems Second-Setting Watch and the Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch in collaboration with renowned aviators. These watches were essential tools for pilots in the early days of aviation.

• Silicon Balance Springs: In recent years, Longines has incorporated silicon balance springs into some of its movements. Silicon is a lightweight, anti-magnetic material that improves the accuracy and stability of the movement.

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Ownership and Corporate Structure

Longines is a subsidiary of The Swatch Group, the world’s largest watchmaking conglomerate. The Swatch Group owns a diverse portfolio of watch brands, ranging from entry-level to high-end. Longines occupies a strategic position within the group, offering a balance of quality, heritage, and value.

Being part of The Swatch Group provides Longines with access to significant resources and expertise. The company benefits from the group’s research and development capabilities, as well as its extensive distribution network. However, Longines also maintains its own distinct identity and brand image.

Longines operates as a separate legal entity within The Swatch Group, with its own management team and manufacturing facilities. The company’s headquarters remain in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, where it has been based since its founding.

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Key Figures

• Auguste Agassiz: The founder of Agassiz & Compagnie, the precursor to Longines. Agassiz laid the foundation for the company’s success by establishing a network of watchmakers and exporting timepieces to international markets.

• Ernest Francillon: Agassiz’s nephew, who joined the company in 1852 and played a pivotal role in its transformation. Francillon’s vision of integrated manufacturing led to the construction of the Longines factory and the adoption of modern production techniques.

• Captain Philip van Horn Weems: An American naval officer and aviator who collaborated with Longines on the development of the Weems Second-Setting Watch. Weems’ expertise in navigation contributed to the design of this innovative timepiece.

• Charles Lindbergh: The famous aviator who made the first solo flight across the Atlantic. Lindbergh collaborated with Longines on the development of the Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch, which helped pilots calculate their longitude.

• Walter von Känel: Former President of Longines. He is credited with revitalising the brand and re-emphasising its heritage and sporting connections.

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Auction Records

Longines watches, particularly vintage models, have performed well at auction, reflecting their historical significance and collectibility. Several Longines timepieces have achieved notable prices at major auction houses.

• In 2018, Phillips sold a Longines chronograph wristwatch, Ref. 13ZN, for CHF 80,000 (according to Phillips). This watch was notable for its exceptional condition and its rare two-tone dial.

• Another Longines chronograph, a Ref. 4973, achieved a price of CHF 62,500 at a Christie’s auction (according to Christie’s). This watch was distinguished by its elegant design and its high-quality movement.

• Vintage Longines military watches, particularly those issued during World War II, are also highly sought after by collectors. These watches often feature robust designs and historical provenance.

Auction prices for Longines watches vary depending on factors such as condition, rarity, and historical significance. Watches with original boxes and papers tend to command higher prices.

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Cultural Legacy and Influence

Longines has had a significant cultural impact, particularly in the fields of sports and aviation. The company has served as the official timekeeper for numerous sporting events, including the Olympic Games, equestrian competitions, and alpine skiing world cups.

Longines’ association with aviation dates back to the early 20th century, when its watches were used by pioneering aviators such as Charles Lindbergh. The company’s navigation instruments played a crucial role in the development of air travel.

Longines watches have also appeared in numerous films and television shows, further cementing their cultural presence. The brand has been associated with elegance, sophistication, and adventure.

The company actively supports equestrian sports and has a long-standing partnership with the Fédération Equestre Internationale (FEI). Longines is the official timekeeper and partner of many prestigious equestrian events around the world.

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Legacy and Significance

Longines occupies a significant position in the history of watchmaking. The company has made numerous contributions to horological technology and design, and its watches have been worn by explorers, athletes, and individuals from all walks of life.

Longines’ commitment to quality, heritage, and innovation has allowed it to maintain its relevance in a constantly evolving market. The company’s diverse portfolio of collections caters to a wide range of tastes and preferences, ensuring its continued appeal to watch enthusiasts around the world.

Longines’ historical significance is underscored by its extensive archives, which document the company’s rich history and technological advancements. The Longines Museum, located at its headquarters in Saint-Imier, showcases the brand’s legacy and its contributions to the world of watchmaking.

The brand’s winged hourglass logo is recognised globally, symbolising its long history and its commitment to precision and elegance. Longines remains a respected and admired name in the watch industry, representing a blend of tradition and innovation.