MB&F

MB&F (Maximilian Büsser and Friends) is a Swiss watch manufacturer established in 2005 in Geneva by Maximilian Büsser. The brand is recognised for its avant-garde approach to horology, producing limited series of timepieces that often feature unconventional designs and complex movements. MB&F operates on a collaborative model, partnering with various watchmakers, designers, and artists to create its distinctive “Machines.”

History and Founding

Maximilian Büsser, a Swiss national with a degree in microtechnology from the École Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne (EPFL), had a career in the watch industry prior to founding MB&F. He worked at Jaeger-LeCoultre for seven years, eventually becoming Senior Product Manager. In 1998, he joined Harry Winston Rare Timepieces, where he served as CEO for seven years. During his tenure at Harry Winston, Büsser was responsible for the development of the Opus series, which involved collaborations with independent watchmakers to create innovative and technically complex timepieces (according to Thompson 2006). This experience laid the foundation for the collaborative ethos that would define MB&F.

Büsser founded MB&F in July 2005 with the aim of creating horological “Machines” that defied traditional watchmaking conventions. The name “Maximilian Büsser and Friends” reflects the brand’s collaborative approach, emphasising the importance of partnerships with talented individuals in the creation of its timepieces. The initial concept was to operate as a creative lab, bringing together different skills and perspectives to develop unique and innovative horological concepts (as stated on mbandf.com).

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Historical Timeline

Year	Event
2005	MB&F founded by Maximilian Büsser in Geneva.
2007	Introduction of the HM1 (Horological Machine No. 1), the first MB&F timepiece, featuring a complex case design and unconventional time display.
2009	Launch of the HM2, featuring a rectangular case and a “mechanical indicator” displaying the date, moon phase, and other functions.
2010	Introduction of the HM3, known for its distinctive cones displaying the time.
2011	Release of the HM4 Thunderbolt, inspired by aviation and featuring two separate dials for time and power reserve.
2012	Launch of the Legacy Machine No. 1 (LM1), a more classically styled timepiece with a large balance wheel suspended above the dial.
2014	Introduction of the HM6 Space Pirate, featuring a biomorphic case and four rotating spheres displaying the hours, minutes, and turbines.
2015	Release of the Legacy Machine Perpetual, featuring an in-house perpetual calendar movement developed in collaboration with Stephen McDonnell.
2017	Launch of the HM7 Aquapod, inspired by jellyfish and featuring a vertical movement with a central tourbillon.
2019	Introduction of the HM9 Flow, featuring a streamlined case and two balance wheels beating independently.
2020	Release of the HM10 Bulldog, featuring a rounded case and “jaws” that indicate the power reserve.
2021	Launch of the LM Sequential EVO, featuring a chronograph with a unique twin chronograph mechanism.
2024	Introduction of the HM11 Architect, a watch inspired by mid-century modern architecture with rotating modules displaying the time and other indications.

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Key Collections and Iconic References

MB&F’s product portfolio is divided into two main collections: Horological Machines and Legacy Machines. Each collection represents a distinct approach to watchmaking, reflecting different aspects of the brand’s creative vision.

Horological Machines (HM)

The Horological Machines collection is characterised by its avant-garde designs, unconventional time displays, and complex case constructions. These timepieces often draw inspiration from science fiction, automotive design, and other unconventional sources. Key models in the Horological Machines collection include:

• HM1: The first MB&F timepiece, featuring a complex case design and an unconventional time display with separate dials for hours and minutes. The HM1 established MB&F’s reputation for innovative design and technical complexity (according to Thompson 2007).
• HM2: Featuring a rectangular case and a “mechanical indicator” displaying the date, moon phase, and other functions. The HM2 showcased MB&F’s ability to integrate multiple complications into a visually striking design.
• HM3: Known for its distinctive cones displaying the time. The HM3 was one of MB&F’s most popular models, with its unconventional design attracting a wide audience.
• HM4 Thunderbolt: Inspired by aviation and featuring two separate dials for time and power reserve. The HM4’s design was influenced by the Lockheed Martin A-10 Thunderbolt II aircraft.
• HM5 On the Road Again: Featuring a retro-futuristic design inspired by 1970s sports cars, with a prism display for the time.
• HM6 Space Pirate: Featuring a biomorphic case and four rotating spheres displaying the hours, minutes, and turbines. The HM6’s design was inspired by science fiction and space exploration.
• HM7 Aquapod: Inspired by jellyfish and featuring a vertical movement with a central tourbillon. The HM7’s design was intended to evoke the organic forms of marine life.
• HM8 Mark 2: A reinterpretation of the HM8, featuring a distinctive case design and a jumping hour complication.
• HM9 Flow: Featuring a streamlined case and two balance wheels beating independently. The HM9’s design was inspired by automotive design and aerodynamics.
• HM10 Bulldog: Featuring a rounded case and “jaws” that indicate the power reserve. The HM10’s design was inspired by the bulldog breed of dog.
• HM11 Architect: Inspired by mid-century modern architecture, featuring rotating modules displaying the time and other indications.

Legacy Machines (LM)

The Legacy Machines collection represents a more classical approach to watchmaking, with round cases, traditional dial layouts, and a focus on showcasing the movement. However, even within this collection, MB&F maintains its innovative spirit, often incorporating unconventional complications and design elements. Key models in the Legacy Machines collection include:

• LM1: The first Legacy Machine, featuring a large balance wheel suspended above the dial. The LM1 was intended to be a more accessible and wearable timepiece than the Horological Machines, while still retaining MB&F’s distinctive design aesthetic.
• LM2: Featuring two balance wheels connected by a planetary differential. The LM2 showcased MB&F’s technical expertise and its ability to create complex and visually striking movements.
• LM101: A more compact and streamlined Legacy Machine, featuring a single balance wheel and a simplified dial layout. The LM101 was intended to be an entry-level model for the Legacy Machine collection.
• LM Perpetual: Featuring an in-house perpetual calendar movement developed in collaboration with Stephen McDonnell. The LM Perpetual was praised for its innovative approach to the perpetual calendar complication.
• LM FlyingT: Designed specifically for women, featuring a flying tourbillon and a tilted dial. The LM FlyingT was MB&F’s first dedicated women’s timepiece.
• LM Split Escapement: Featuring a balance wheel and escapement separated on opposite sides of the movement.
• LMX: A Legacy Machine celebrating MB&F’s 15th anniversary, featuring a unique movement with a central flying balance wheel and multiple complications.
• LM Sequential Flyback: Featuring a chronograph with a unique twin chronograph mechanism, allowing for complex timing functions.
• LM Thunderdome: Featuring three axes of rotation on the tourbillon.

Performance Art

MB&F also produces “Performance Art” pieces, which are collaborations with other artists and watchmakers. These collaborations often result in unique and unconventional timepieces that push the boundaries of horological design. Examples include collaborations with Alain Silberstein, Stepan Sarpaneva, and L’Epée 1839.

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Technical Heritage and Innovation

MB&F is known for its technical innovation and its willingness to experiment with unconventional movement designs. The brand has developed a number of unique complications and movement architectures, often in collaboration with independent watchmakers and engineers.

Some of MB&F’s key technical innovations include:

• Unconventional time displays: MB&F has developed a variety of unconventional time displays, including rotating cones, prism displays, and satellite displays.
• Suspended balance wheels: The Legacy Machines collection features large balance wheels suspended above the dial, creating a visually striking effect.
• In-house perpetual calendar movement: The LM Perpetual features an in-house perpetual calendar movement developed in collaboration with Stephen McDonnell, which is known for its innovative approach to the perpetual calendar complication.
• Twin chronograph mechanism: The LM Sequential Flyback features a unique twin chronograph mechanism, allowing for complex timing functions.
• Vertical movements: The HM7 Aquapod features a vertical movement with a central tourbillon, inspired by the anatomy of a jellyfish.
• Independent balance wheels: The HM9 Flow features two balance wheels beating independently, connected by a planetary differential.

MB&F also collaborates with other companies to create innovative movements and components. For example, the brand has worked with Agenhor, a movement design and manufacturing company, on several of its timepieces (according to Europa Star 2015).

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Ownership and Corporate Structure

MB&F is an independent, family-owned company. Maximilian Büsser is the founder and creative director of the brand. Serge Kriknoff serves as the CEO. The company operates with a small team of employees and relies on a network of external suppliers and partners for the production of its timepieces.

MB&F has established a reputation for transparency and openness, often sharing details about its production processes and collaborations with its customers and the media. The brand also maintains a strong presence on social media, engaging with its fans and collectors.

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Key Figures

• Maximilian Büsser: Founder and creative director of MB&F. Büsser is responsible for the overall design and direction of the brand.
• Serge Kriknoff: CEO of MB&F. Kriknoff is responsible for the day-to-day operations of the company.
• Stephen McDonnell: Independent watchmaker who collaborated with MB&F on the LM Perpetual.
• Eric Giroud: Watch designer who has worked with MB&F on several of its timepieces.
• L’Epée 1839: Swiss clock manufacturer that has collaborated with MB&F on a series of table clocks.

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Auction Records

MB&F timepieces have performed well at auction, with several models achieving high prices. Some notable auction results include:

Reference	Auction House	Year	Price (CHF)
HM4 Only Watch	Christie’s	2011	150,000
HM8 Only Watch	Christie’s	2017	210,000
HM10 Panda Only Watch	Christie’s	2021	270,000

These auction results reflect the desirability of MB&F timepieces among collectors and the brand’s strong reputation in the high-end watch market.

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Cultural Legacy and Influence

MB&F has had a significant impact on the watch industry, inspiring other brands to experiment with unconventional designs and collaborative projects. The brand’s success has demonstrated that there is a market for highly creative and technically innovative timepieces.

MB&F has also been recognised for its contributions to design and innovation. The brand’s timepieces have been exhibited in museums and galleries around the world, and have received numerous awards and accolades.

The brand’s collaborative approach has also influenced the way that other watch companies operate, with more brands now partnering with independent watchmakers and artists to create unique and innovative timepieces.

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Legacy and Significance

MB&F has established itself as a leading independent watch brand, known for its avant-garde designs, technical innovation, and collaborative spirit. The brand’s timepieces are highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts, and have helped to push the boundaries of horological design.

MB&F’s legacy is one of creativity, innovation, and collaboration. The brand has demonstrated that it is possible to create highly successful and respected timepieces by challenging traditional conventions and embracing new ideas. MB&F’s influence on the watch industry is likely to continue for many years to come.

References

Europa Star. 2015. “Agenhor: The discreet art of movement design.” Europa Star. https://www.europastar.com/1004018153-agenhor-the-discreet-art-of-movement-design.html

Thompson, Joe. 2006. “Harry Winston’s Opus Series: A Retrospective.” International Watch Magazine.

Thompson, Joe. 2007. “MB&F Horological Machine No. 1.” International Watch Magazine.